Canister filters on Coldwater tanks?

So I'm trying to figure out how plumb in some filtration for my second coldwater tank and I'm getting kinda stumped.

Basically the tank has no "overflows" like a normal tank, it is plumbed with a drain in the very bottom of the tank underneath the coolant coil that runs to the external pump below the tank, and the returns run up from the bottom. So its more or less like a closed loop. So I am trying to figure out if I can run a sump on a system like this and cant figure out a good way to plumb it all together.

I have been debating on taking the easy way out for filtration and simply running a really nice canister filter like one of the Eheims on this system. But that still leaves me with the question of how to plumb a protein skimmer inline on a closed loop system, anyone have ideas?????

If I can figure out how to run the sump I'll be able to hook in a regular skimmer very easily as well as other add ons. If I run the canister filter, it solves the basic filtration plumbing issue, but cause more problems for add ons in the future.

HELP!!! I'M GOING CRAZY OVER THIS .................................

Perhaps installing an internal overflow?

http://www.flowerhornusa.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32162


All you really need is a length of pipe attached to your outflow to set the water level. Then in will overflow down the pipe and into your sump. Then same pipe plus a spraybar or whatever you like on your return.

Hopefully this will illustrate better what I'm working with.

The red lines are where the returns are. They run from underneath the tank, up through the lower level and up to the waters surface.

The green square is where the viewable bottom of the tank will be. There will be a piece of acrylic with slats cut in it. Below that is where the coolant coil is housed and where the drain for the closed loop is.



While I was typing this I just realized that there is also a drain on the bottom that is used for water changes. I can use that drain and make a stand pipe that runs up through the lower false bottom plate to the water surface and have that go to the sump and split the returns. Using one return for the sump, and one return for the closed loop on the auto feeder This is totally going to solve everything !!!!

Here's another look at the tank and where things are situated inside.

The red dots are the tops of the returns.
The green square is where the false bottom cover plate will be.
The blue arrow points to where the drain is that I will mod and place a standpipe central overflow in that will go to the sump.
The yellow line is a strainer that is connected to the current drain that goes to the return pump.

That will suit the design perfectly.

How big are we talking here? Diameter of the the hole marked in blue might be limiting to your flow. If it can be done, and by the looks of it, it can, drill that whole wider when you put the standpipe in.

that's what I was thinking, or I may change the closed loop onto that one. Gonna try it both ways as is before drilling it since the bottom is fiberglass and I don't want to F it up.

I managed to get the bottom drain valve to unscrew and it has inset threads that are 1 inch. Went to home depot and got everything I needed to replace the existing drain valve and add a 1 inch stand pipe overflow. Problem solved

AquaticEngineer wrote:I managed to get the bottom drain valve to unscrew and it has inset threads that are 1 inch. Went to home depot and got everything I needed to replace the existing drain valve and add a 1 inch stand pipe overflow. Problem solved

Finally, something that turns out to be easy!

LOL, yeah no doubt. It actually ended up being such an easy fix that I'm going to make it more complicated

Since now there will be a central overflow in the middle of the tank, I'm going to try and clean up the rest of the viewable plumbing. I'm going to cut the 2 stand pipe returns down close to the viewable tank bottom and put some small movable loc line returns in.

Only thing I will have to add in is some solenoid valves ( which I was planning on adding anyways) on the drain and return that goes to the sump. That way when when the power to sump return pump is on. the valves will be open. When the power cuts, the valves will close preventing any sump overflows.

I know I should follow the K.I.S.S. rule, but where is the fun in that?

sweet

AquaticEngineer wrote:
I know I should follow the K.I.S.S. rule, but where is the fun in that?

Still sounds pretty simple. I can't think of a simpler way other than to simply hide the tubes in rockwork.

do you have filter floss to keep the food from decaying in there

moto826 wrote:do you have filter floss to keep the food from decaying in there

Where at? I'll have filter floss or a filter pad in the sump. Anything that makes its way to the lower part of the tank under the false bottom will be sucked in and ran through the closed loop that is attached to the auto feeder and shot back into the display part of the tank.

in the canister filter sorry typing on a cell phone lol

moto826 wrote:in the canister filter sorry typing on a cell phone lol

I opted completely out of messing with a canister filter. To much maintenance for me to open it up and clean the filters all the time. I'd rather just have a filter pad I can pull out and replace. I found a way to make a sump work on this setup.

I picked up a little giant pump Model Number: 4-MDQX-SC to run on the sump, it needs a few replacement parts but for $20 I couldn't pass it up.